I was able to get a setup put on the car after the uprights were installed and ready to go. So, now, all I need is a harness bar, and probably a new seat, to be able to go racing. At least with the bar, I can go shake down the car and make any changes that need making. Here’s the setup on the car:
|Toe||1/32 out||1/32 out|
|Toe||1/32 in||1/32 in|
And the corner weights:
|Front:||153||169||1 7/16||1 4/16|
|Rear:||234||224||1 8/16||1 10/16|
Note those weights are without bodywork (93#!!! – normal is about 53#!), and no driver. 1 turn of the pushrod would get my fronts even, so I left it for now, since invariably I’ll check things one more time before the first race.
Numbers seem slightly odd. With even cornerweights, the heights are a bit strange. I think some of that is down to the front diffuser and floor not being quite as symmetrical as they ought to be on a car that’s seen this much racing. When the car first when back together, I had everything set equal length, and the cornerweights were perfect. It was just once setting ride heights that I had to monkey with things a bit. Not sure if this is indictative of anything, but I suppose it is what it is….
The season is fast approaching, and fortunately, the list of projects on the car is down to just a handful.
- Harness Bar: Fitting the harness bar has turned out to be a big saga. The West bar did not fit due to the variations in my car’s fuel cell bulkhead. Evidently, the first 15 or so Stohrs had slight variations in these parts since they were hand-made, and mine is a bit taller than most. So, that went back.
The Stohr bar seems to be pretty basic, but fitment doesn’t seem to be all that great on a couple cars I saw. So, coupled with mine potentially being different, I threw any notion of a pre-made bar out.
At this point, I’ve got all the bits to get the bar made, and will head down to Rilltech when I’m able to get the bar fabbed up.
- Engine Intakes: As with the harness bar, I have all these parts, just need a bit of time
from a welder to tig them together. The ducts from Pegasus are installed on the headrest, I have the hose and clamps, so all that’s needed is hte last piece of the bits that fit over the Suzuki airbox to accept the ducting.
Harness: Evidently, Schroth makes (but does not advertise) a Formula II-HANS harness
- with adjustable lapbelts. It’s about an extra $40 or so. I had them ship me one, so I will fit and compare with the standard nonadjustable lapbelt model when it arrives, and send back whichever I don’t want.
So, everything that’s dealt with, and how it went:
- Uprights, Hubs, and Bearings: These have all arrived from Mike Scully, and are on the car. Everything bolted right up directly with just a few different fasteners needed to get them on the car. No adjustments to the control arms were necessary, the installed angle (approx 90*) was the same with no adjustments.
They have slightly different geometry than the old uprights – basically, the upper and lower pivot are moved aft 1″ – and the wheelbase is extended by 1″. Looks like it probably changes the effective caster or something, I’m not one to know. The only issue
this caused, with the wheel being located further forward, is a rub on the rear edge of the lower front control arm at full lock, so I will need to make a spacer of some kind for the rack for when I’m moving around paddock. Might just be as simple as a few washers
to slip over, but I will investigate later.
- Radiator Repair: I noticed a bit of steam from the radiator when starting the car a while back, and it turns out there were some hairline cracks. I had a local radiator shop repair it with some goo. They only got it about 75% back though, as there’s still steam (but no visible coolant) from the radiator. C&R says it’s a $600+ radiator to replace, so I’m going to run it as-is and see if the car keeps cool, or if the problem worsens or goes away. I have an old original radiator as an emergency spare if I need it.
- Floating Rotors: The new rotors are on the car with the new hats from Stohr. I added a set of new Polymatrix A brake pads all around, and kept Scully’s 2-pot calipers as spares.