I’ve started a little bit on some of the winter projects, though with no great haste. Some misc updates that may be interesting. More as I get the time to type.
Also, the Runoffs writeup is on the way, just need time to finish off the notes…
- Weight And Fuel: At the end of Runoffs, my car was 1023 across the scales. I drained the fuel when I got home, and drained approximately 10# of fuel from the car, or
about 1.5 gallons. My methodology was to wait until bubbles appeared in the line to shut off the drain. Just now, I removed the fuel cell in anticipation of the new one,
and poured a further 8 pounds of fuel out of the bottom of the cell. We’ll see how that compares to the single-pump-with-collector setup that will be present in the new fuel cell.
- Fuel Cell Weight: On that topic, the fuel cell itself, with my two Walbro 255’s (one as a scavenge to the odd collector pot), collector, and misc lines, weighed 9.4 pounds,
not including the fill plate that used to mount to the car. I’m interested to see how that compares to the new Stohr cell with the side-fill kit. Maybe I’ll save another few pounds here.
- Less Weight? it’s getting down to only little things left to remove on the car to try and further reduce weight, without compromising longevity/cost-to-run. Weight
at the Runoffs was 1020#, so maybe I can get down to under 1000# after all?
- $1,500 Rilltech Ti Headers: – 4#, plus additional horsepower. (Existing headers are very poor)
- $2,000 Luxon Uprights: -3# – reportedly about 1.5# per side, and get the benefit of reduced steering effort / greater feel.
- $200 Brake Masters: -2# – Moving to the smaller Tilton master saves about .5# per master cylinder?
- $225 Smaller Oil Cooler: -7# – reportedly, a smaller cooler with the small surround saves about 7# in less metal and less oil. Only for cool weather though!
- $1,500 Fuel Cell/Pumps? -#? – the new cell will hopefully weigh less, and having just one pump instead of two…?
- $- Fuel? – will I now be able to run less fuel? From Runoffs, the car still had 20# of fuel in it at the end of the race, so perhaps 10ish of that won’t be needed next time?
- $100 Bracketry: -1# – I can remake the muffler mount from aluminum instead of steel bar stock.
- $? Lightweight Fasteners: -4#? How much can be saved doing this, and where to get the parts, and at what cost?
- $? WRD Tripods: -6# Evidently Lee Williams has made some Tripods that need servicing far less frequently than the Taylor bits, and save about 3# per side on the car
- $? Brakes?: -? I’m hearing more about the Brembo brakes being significantly lighter than the Wilwoods that most run on the car, and the stiffer caliper will likely also help brake feel. (not that it’s particularly bad…)
- $0 Oh Yeah… -10# – don’t forget, the driver could still lose about 10# and be PLENTY healthy!
- Tire Thoughts: After giving it some thought, I think I’ve concluded that I’m going to return to Goodyears for the 2011 season. My personal take is that the 9″ Goodyear
is probably a bit faster once I get the car balance right, and that the 160 compound is more suited to getting up to temperature on our cars in less than very cold conditions. They certainly have the downside of wearing out quicker, and of not being as consistent height-wise, but I believe they will be faster, overall. It’ll take a bit of tuning to get the setup as neutral as the car is now with the Hoosiers, but once I have the neutrality combined with the stickier compound, I think it will be a bit better, ESPECIALLY during the opening laps of the races.
At least three drivers at Runoffs told me that they thought they had a 1:59.x going on their dash before various factors kicked in to prevent them. It does seem like next year, under 2:00 is going to be likely for DSR, as everybody’s cars get faster, lighter, and more powerful. The development race continues!