site home | Radical news/home | contact | info | images | projects/modlist | racing log :. Engine Conversion The Goal of this page is to detail the steps required to convert my car from a carbureted 2003 R1 to a fuel injected Hayabusa engine. Perhaps the steps will aid somebody in a conversion of their own somewhere down the line. Enjoy! 2008.04.04 | 2008.03.11 | 2008.02.10 | 2008.02.06 | 2008.02.05 | 2008.02.04 | 2008.01.20 | 2007.12.29 | 2007.12.27 | 2007.12.24 | 2007.12.19 | 2007.12.18 | 2007.12.13 | 2007.12.12 | 2007.11.08 | 2007.11.06 | 2007.11.08 | 2007.11.06 | 2007.11.05 | 2007.11.02 | 2007.10.31 | 2007.10.30 | 2007.10.26 | 2007.10.23 Parts List / Budget / Costs 2008.04.04 ·Go! Richard called me Thursday night with news that the pans had finally arrived from the CNC shop. I drove down there, picked it up, and installed the pan Thursday night. As well, I reinstalled the wiring harness, since we added the gear position sensor back in, for the GI-Pro to work. The new pan is really, really cool, no other way to say it. While the pan was off, I installed the Falicon baffle, so the engine should be 100% covered as far as oil supply goes - knock on wood. I finished up the oil pan install, re-primed everything, hit the ignition, and started it up. She started first try, and settled down to rumpity its way through an idle. Soon, some outings to shake everything down, see what falls off, leaks, breaks, etc. But, for now, everything looks great. Project...DONE! 2008.03.11 ·Set... It has a been a quiet month. I have mostly been waiting for the completion of the wiring harness to install, so the things to do on the car have been pretty limited. As indicated below, Grant and I epoxied the IAT into the airbox, which looks like it will work fine. MAP and AP (air pressure) sensors I have mounted on the throttle bodies with small grommets for vibration isolation. Richard finished the wiring harness last Wednesday, and I picked it up Saturday when I got back from Pagosa. Sunday, Monday, and tonight (Tuesday), I spent installing it - looming things up and generally putting bits and pieces where I thought they would fit nicely. I made a small mount for the ECU, just aft of the engine mounts, which will keep it, hopefully, clean, dry, and generally out of harm's way. The mount itself is mounted with velcro strips, and the ECU is velcro'd to the mount, so that too should provide sufficient isolation from vibration. With nothing left to do, I connected the cooling system, and filled it up. Richard told me to prime the motor in the following way, which I thought was a useful bit of info: Fill the motor with oil Back off the oil filter until you can see about 1/8" of daylight under its base Remove the plugs/coils and spin on the starter until 1/2 quart of oil comes out of the filter (place a can for this, obviously) Tighten the filter back down, re-fill engine, since you lost 1/2 quart, and the cooler is now filled, etc. Spin on starter again until you see 10+psi pressure on your gauge Reinstall plugs, & start. So, I did all but the last part. Unfortunately, she won't start quite yet. Seems to be trying, but no fire. Started some troubleshooting, but ran out of things I know to check pretty quickly. Will discuss with Richard, and give it another shot this week. Pic1 Pic2 Pic3 Pic4 [Update]: After thinking about it in the shower, I realized I should check the idle screw, since it occurred to me, I couldn't see how any air was getting in the motor. Duh. In summary: It runs it runs it runs it runs it runs it runs it runs it runs it runs it runs it runs it runs it runs it runs it runs it runs it runs it runs!!!! Time to start all the double-checklists, but so far, so good. One heat cycle down...hopefully hundreds to come :) 2008.02.10 ·Ready... Lots more progress today. Installed the headers today, after Richard pointed out to my dumb ass that the gaskets were already installed in the exhaust ports. Dur. They didn't go together all that smoothly - one allen bolt is inaccessible when the headers are installed, so I had to replace it with its hex equivalent from my bucket-o-dismantled-DSM's. Generally fiddled around for quite a long time getting it all sorted out, but everything is fastened, attached, and so on. Muffler went on in the exact same place as it was before, so I think everything is about the way it should be there. I'm sure it will 'take a set' just a bit after its first few heat cycles. Reinstalled all the brake pads and calipers, and installed the new chain. Now have a new spare that will go in the spares box, which is good. Also installed and set the throttle cable. Put the old one in my spares box, where, as it turns out, there was another spare already. Extended and completed the wiring harness for the GI-Pro gear indicator. Connected it to the gear position sensor and the non-switched power for now. If it turns out to be useless without the ECU on, (mostly so it will read neutral for moving the car around...) I'll move it to the switched power, to free up that terminal spot for powering the camera equipment later. Installed & tightened all the oil lines, and re-sheathed them in their thermo-flex heatshield tubing. Removed the center from the t-stat as directed, and capped the nipple at the top of it. Loosely installed swirlpot and coolant hoses for now - will have to finalize that when the LHS sidepod goes back on, after the wiring is done. Only about 6-7 things left on the list now. Grant and I will epoxy the IAT fitting this week, hopefully the wiring harness will be completed this week too, and I'll retrieve that along with the completed shocks. Wiring harness will bring lots of routing questions, I'm sure, and the questions of where to mount the rectifier and ECU. The pictures are starting to look more and more like an assembled car... Pic1 Pic2 Pic3 Pic4 2008.02.06 ·Are we there yet? Going down the checklist, and getting the car put back together. Finished reassembling the firewall/bulkhead, reinstalled the harnesses and the seat. Started re-tying back the wiring, wrapping it up, and generally making things look presentable. Spent a lot of time head-scratching tonight and making plans for where things will go. Everything is looking pretty tidy, so I am encouraged. Took the airbox to Grant today. After some fidling, we discovered that we can use the stock Suzuki trumpets in the Radical airbox, so the feared project of re-doing the airbox will not come to pass. We will epoxy the AN Nut for the IAT sensor to the airbox where one of the overflow lines for the old Keihins was, and that will be nice and clean. On the super-duper cool front, I was able to connect the computer to the Stack and pull a bunch of data off of it. What I actually pulled, I haven't the foggiest, but I'm hoping there's a session in there of the last Pueblo race from last winter. Will be cool to have at least one set of comparative data from the R1. 2008.02.05 ·Milestone Passed a reasonable milestone tonight. I reinstalled the battery in the car and tested out the fuel system. No leaks, and MAN does that pump move a lot of fuel. Draining the tank used to take 20 minutes - now it will take about 20 seconds! Set the pressure at 45psi - the regulator works well. Dead steady. I put the bulkhead back in place, and will install it tomorrow, along with the seat, harness, etc - the front of the car will actually start to look like a car again! All of the fuel componenets are very easily accessible from behind the "access plate" in the bulkhead, so my plan for having installing them there seems to have worked out really well in that regard. I am happy with that. Pic 1, Pic 2. Removed a few now-uneeded wires from the dash area, so I think I can start buttoning up that was well. Paddle Shifter wiring is removed and coiled for now, since how it will appear depends totally on the new brain box from Paradigm whenever that arrives. Also routed the wires for the GI-PRO gear indicator, and will finalize that once the wiring harness is ready from Rilltech. Biggest setback was realizing that the airbox will not fit as-is. Grant and I are going to have to make new holes to fit over the smaller Hayabusa throttle bodies, so that may be a project of reasonable length. Leary called to say the shocks are ready, so I will retrieve those and start putting the rest of the car together as well. More to come! 2008.02.04 ·Beginning the final push... Lots of updates tonight, as I finally have the engine in my hands, and have begun installing it! First, some small tidbits: Fuel System Layout: - I finalized the layout of the various fuel system components under the bulkhead, so they're in slightly different positions from the earlier pictures. Here is the Updated Picture. Fuel System Venting - After showing the pictures of the layout of my vent line from December 29, folks cautioned I should re-route the vent. As routed, the vapors would tend to collect under the decklid, which on one fellow's car, caused a fire. So, I have reinstalled the Radical factory check valve, run out the back/bottom of the car, as in the original install. I hope never to test this installation. Pic1, Pic 2. Fuel System Check Valves - I was VERY strong recommended NOT to use the Pegasus check valve #3216, as mentioned below, as it is quite restrictive once installed, and can cause vacuum to build up in the cell. After trying to blow through the thing after installing it, I have to agree. The factory Radical check valve certain was easier blow through. Eventually, I may replace it with a nicer check valve, such as an Earl's -6 check valve, Summit #EAR-251006ERL. (Thanks to Radical Forum!) Oil Pan Musings - After making a zillion phone calls, talking to misc folks, I learned a bit more. First, it seems that the Koenig pan with the "swivel" pickup doesn't work AT ALL in car installations. Rilltech said they've tried one, and the motor did not last long on a track with long RH sweepers. I could not find anybody using a Downs pan, and did not like the idea of the modified stocker, so I caved and bought Rilltech's really nice pan. A year from now, I'll forget the cost, and the peace of mind of knowing I have a really nicely designed system will be nice! OK, now for the money shot: Pic 2 Pic 3 Pic 4 The new engine is installed in the chassis. I fit the throttle bodies, and installed the RCC Turbo fitting in the fuel rail that gives a 1/8 NPT fitting that can then be adapted to the -6 fuel lines. Here is the engine with the TB's installed, and the fuel line run. The brass fitting on the AN adapters is the SCCA mandated fuel sample port. Will continue installing parts tomorrow, and soon, will hook up the battery to give the fuel system its test. 2008.01.20 ·An engine cometh Richard sent me a note today that he was finally able to source an engine/car kit for me. Should be here in a few days. This is fantastic! My chain and sprockets have arrived as well. Ordered an oil pan, baffle, and small support bracket for the clutch cover from Schnitz Racing. The baffle is the Falicon baffle that most folks use. The Pan is the Koenig billet pan with the "swivel" pickup, which is a tad interesting. However, nobody seemed to have any noteworthy reservations with it, and the pan has additional capacity relative to the cut-down stockers. Picture Hopefully next update will be the beginning of the conversion's final reassembly. Will see what sort of ETA Richard has on doing the small motor work and wiring harness. Hoping to have it running by end of Feb at the latest, hopefully MUCH sooner. 2007.12.29 ·Fuely Couple more small steps this morning. I routed the breather hose vent line, with the new check valve from Pegasus installed in it, in a convenient spot up near the roll hoop. I left plenty of slack for the future, in case I either need to change the routing slightly, or to make sure nothing will get "tugged" loose. Removed the Digi-Gear in preparation for the new GI-Pro gear indicator, and labelled all the wires, so those will sit for a while now. Confirmed that the long starter wires will work, so that's one less question to answer. Suspension has all new bushings and bolts. Gotta love it - $11 in fasteners from CD Fasteners to do the entire car. Finally, I finished the routing for the cooling system lines with my new 45* silicone hoses from Pegasus. Almost everything is ready to go now. Going to see if Richard can put together a harness and ECU for me to use, so that I can get the car wired while we wait for the motor. Next up - going to leak-test the fuel system, see if I can maybe even set the baseline pressure, and start reinstalling everything for the cockpit area. Vent hose @ Engine Vent Hose @ Cell Car back half - lookin' good!t 2007.12.27 ·Another Round of Ordering Time for another round of ordering parts. The fuel tipover check-valve is on its way from Pegasus, a clamp for the muffler, and the 45* elbows to finish the coolant system. From Summit, a 1/8 NPT aluminum bung to weld into the new swirl pot, and two "grommets" to remount the front shock canisters. I had Richard order me up 14T, 15T, 16T, and 17T sprockets for the 'busa, since he can get them for $15 (!) apeice. Ordered the GI-Pro gear indicator that reads the 'busa's gear position switch, so I will know what gear I'm in, something I've always sorta wanted, and it never worked right on the R1 with the DataTool digi-gear. Talking with Richard about what chain to run, and will order whichever that turns out to be before too long. Candidates from having read around are the DID ZVM2, the RK GXW I've been running, the EK ZZZ, which appears to be a big ole badass, and Richard's suggestion of the EK ZVX2. However, Matt Graham says that may be a chain he had a bad experience with, so we'll see what shakes out. Conveniently with the EK chains, they are available in 150 link lengths, which saves me money over the DID and RK products. Need to replace the radiator cap on the new swirl pot with a proper one in the 22-28psi range, so I'll go rummaging in NAPA's parts bin tomorrow. 2007.12.24 ·Wearing These Chains Took the time this morning to do part of the project I've been avoiding - finalizing and double-checking the alignment of the motor, and sizing the chain. I had been a bit worried about the final engine alignment, since a loose install of the upper mounts was showing some odd alignment, and the threads for the upper mounts into the bulkhead were somewhat reluctant, which made me worry that perhaps everything wasn't as straight as it ought to be. All the worry was for nought, fortunately. After running a tap through the bulkhead threads, and doing some minor filing of the upper mounts, everything fits perfectly without so much as a spacer. All the bolts thread in by hand nearly all the way now, which means all the mounts are lining up quite well. Outstanding! With everything snugged down, it was time to shorten up the chain from the R1, and see where things stand. Looks like the R1's sprocket was further forward, and higher up. I took four links out of the chain, so the length now is 74 links (37 plates). I tensioned everything with a 17/48 combo, assuming that 65 teeth is the largest number I'll run, and that SHOULD give me enough adjustment to go as low as 62 teeth, should I need to. That gives me quite a range of adjustment. As well, the lower sprocket location of the 'busa means that 15/50 should work without frame clearancing issues. So, all appears good - a big potential mess off of the to-do list. Really, only minor bits and pieces left now until the engine arrives, at which time wiring will commence... 2007.12.19 ·Plumberbutt Ran what I think will be a good arrangement for the coolant plumbing. Direct and compact, uses a minimum of clamps, and has everything where I want it. Amazing what 30 minutes in the back of a NAPA will get you: For the top, I used a 45* silicone elbow from the swirl pot to the radiator inlet. Running from the cylinder head to the swirl pot are two formed NAPA radiator hoses, #7939 and #8744. $12, versus god-knows-what for a bunch of silicone elbows feels nicer to me. I can replace these every year for five years and still be ahead on the cost of the silicone. After 3 years in the Radical, the old hoses showed no wear/hardening/splitting/etc, so I have full confidence using the NAPA hoses again. At the bottom, is a brilliant little hose that curves around the shift linkage, NAPA #7462 ($6) two silicone 45's to ease the curve around the lower framerail, and a length of straight 1" hose off of the radiator. Coupling all the bits are some 1" aluminum pipe I've had lying around that came with the car from Hasty Horn. The swirl pot itself seems to be the original Radical piece, so I'll have to have it modified to accept the 1/8 NPT temp sensor for the Stack dash. Grant will be able to take care of that with no problem. Mounted a small water overflow pot to handle any overflow, so I don't get any residue from bubbling like I did with the old system: Going to order a few hoses to serve as spares, and some 3/8 and 5/16" hose for various overflows etc. All in all, nice and inexpensive for the water plumbing. Once the swirl pot is done, and the extra hoses arrive, the coolant system is complete. Going to tackle the chain length/alignment and finalization of the engine mount shimming/location soon. More Pictures: Plumbing side shot Plumbing side shot Lower hoses laid out Lower hoses installed (1) Lower hoses installed (2) 2007.12.18 ·Making the List... Some small progress tonight. Finished routing the clutch line now that I have the slave cylinder to confirm fitment/location with. Have it support in place with clamps now, so that is finished, which means I can put the crushbox back on. I took a stab at getting the cooling system plumbed. Going to visit NAPA tomorrow, and probably end up ordering some silicone from Pegasus if I can't find the bits I need there. Found the clamp I need for the muffler-to-collector at Pegasus, as well as a muffler "repack kit" that I may order if I begin to have sound problems with the car. Also, I still need to order the check valve for the fuel cell vent fitting. Going to test-fit the chain soon by breaking it and cutting a few links out to figure out what size chain I will need to order. Going to see if I can make a neat plug-and-play harness for where the engine meets the chassis electrical, to make future ECU changes as easy and painless as possible - just a bit of plugging and unplugging. 2007.12.13 ·Exhaust Finished... After only a few days of work, Rilltech called me Thursday to tell me that the car was done. I picked it up, and the result looks great! The header looks like nice work, the routing of the muffler looks good, and the cut in the bodywork for the exit is good stuff too. I may make a small 'hood' if it becomes necessary, but for now, everything looks great. rear shot side shot header 1 header 2 header 3 muffler 1 muffler 2 muffler 3 2007.12.12 ·Header Finally, a bit of progresss, after a month or so of waiting. I dropped the car off at Rilltech on Saturday, and we had a long chat about how to route the exhaust. We decided to get a little bit rock-star with it. Header will exit out the passenger (driver's right) side, as with the Yamaha. Instead of snaking back through the suspension, or up over the chain, we're going to put the muffler right in front of the shock, and do a top-exit right in front of the RR shock, and direct it back towards the wing, sorta vaguely F1 style. Richard says they've had great results doing this on the Speads and Stohrs - something about directing the exhaust at the wing muffles the sound tremendously. He shared that at the runoffs, Jaremko didn't even have a muffler on the car, and still passed sound! Other benefits are a lot less pipe for less weight, less heat around the rear of the car to deal with, nothing in the way of really deepening the diffuser, and so on. So, I am eager to see how it works - it will be a pretty cool setup if so. Also beneficial, the ~2" gap between the sidepod and oil cooler will serve to help cool the collector and muffler that will be somewhat behind the oil cooler. So, should be neat - I'll post some pictures when it's done. Richard called today to say that the car should be done tomorrow, so we'll see soon! 2007.11.15 ·Prep Prep Not a lot to report lately. The new fasteners arrived from McMaster-Carr, so I have the engine in place as correctly as I can. The new M16x1.50 to 1/8NPT adapter worked perfectly for the temperature sender probe, so the plumbing for the car is nearly complete. Since the Peter D header didn't work, the car is going to Rilltech to get a header built, and the suspension is now back on the car, and it's basically ready to roll into the trailer. Rear wiring is all tied back again. I partially ran the new clutch line, and cleaned up/checked/etc along the front of the car after taking the front crushbox off. So, the list of things I can do is largely complete for now. Until I have the header and the new engine to actually finish and start final-testing assembly, it's now a waiting game. I'll update when there's more to say... 2007.11.10 ·Steps Forward, Steps Back As anticipated, the Peter D Motorsports header arrived on Friday. While it did fit in the car, just, it was just too tight in many spots, and caused a few line routing issues that I just wasn't happy with, so unfortunately, it will have to go back. Specifically, it did not clear the front firewall entirely without need to be modified, and it almost completely blocked access to the oil cooler inlets and outlets. This means that I will need to have Rilltech build the header and exhaust. To do that, I'll have to properly mount the engine to ensure it's in the right spot, and to do that, I need to get the car to Grant so he can fix the rear mounting "ears". That, in turn, means I need to get the car into a rolling state again, so I'll work on that assembly for a while. Small bits of progress. With the oil adapter fittings in place, I was able to cut and shorten the oil cooler lines to where they need to be. I ran the -4 line for the pressure sender, and extended its wiring. So, pretty much everything related to the oiling system is done and ready to go. I finished the last fuel line as well, so that is ready to be finished when the throttle bodies are in place to be able to route the final line. So, that means the only engine-related things left for me to do right now are to do a small amount of test-fitting of the swirl pot, and to install the new clutch line from Radical. I will call Rilltech Monday to see how soon I can bring the car down to have the header and exhaust system built. 2007.11.08 ·Small Reassembly I began some small reassembly tonight - I put the rear suspension and axles back on. New hardware for everything, and new bushings for the rear suspension. Will clean and reinstall the rear calipers and rear brake lines, and re-tie the rear-right wiring. ·Engine In-Situ (sorta) The mount kit from Radical arrived, and I had enough hardware to "fake" mount the busted Hayabusa in the engine bay. The Radical mounts are really outstanding - I am impressed. The 'busa does seem a bit bigger, but not obnoxiously so. Some fitment details are way better, like the position of the sprocket and gearchange stuff, there is a lot more room to work. Clearance is tighter on the right side of the engine bay, and the engine appears to extend further forward, as well, but it does seem to sit perhaps an inch lower than the R1 did. I test-fitted some bits to see how this will all go. The shift rod fits perfectly, so no changes needed there. Plenty of clearance with the fuel cell outlet as well. The oil pressure sender will mount nicely on the right "post" near the middle of the car, and the oil cooler lines will have to be shortened somewhat, but look like they are about where they need to be OK as well. Wiring length ofr the oil pressure and temp look to be about what will be needed anyway. Oil overflow tank fits perfectly, and the water overflow will fit where it needs to, too. Big question mark is if the Peter D header is going to fit. If not, then there are so many degrees of freedom on fitting everything else, that I'll have to wait on routing any of the water and fuel lines, since that might dictate a Radical style "split" header going around each side of the engine. Hopefully the Peter D header will work...eep. Engine Bay LHS Engine Bay RHS Engine Bay LHS Low view 2007.11.06 ·Incremental Progress Made some small progress tonight. I re-shuffled the fuel line routing a small amount after discovering the return line was the *bottom* fitting on the regulator, and not any one of the side fittings. Oops. RTFM, eh? I finalized the mount for the regulator, now secured with two bolts, and ran the wiring for the fuel pressure sender and fuel pump. I fused the fuel pump with a 20a fuse, since the instructions were so hugely adamant about fusing the connection. We'll see if that becomes a reliability liability or not. I test-fitted everything with the bulkhead in place, and everything is excellently accessible, I am very pleased with that arrangement. I ordered the last fittings needed for the fuel system, a few stragglers for the oil system, and one for the water catch tank, which will mount near the rear differential, where the oil tank previously mounted. Grant has the oil overflow, and the fuel cell filler neck, which will go back on tomorrow. Radical order arrives with the new bushings, and engine mounts, so fitment starts in earnest tomorrow! 2007.11.05 ·Assembly Begins - Fuel Lines The first steps of reassembly began tonight. I installed the new bulkhead fitting for the fuel return line, and put the main access plate back on. Once the cell was back in place, I began routing the fuel system. All of this is accessible from an access plate I have in the bulkhead. The large Rex Marine filter is good for 900GPH, miles more than the pump can supply, and the pump can supply far beyond what the engine can consume - that should leave plenty of margin. Both are mounted with padding, the clamp, and a nutsert into the fuel cell support plate. I am happy with the routing so far - no overly tight bends, and nothing is going to be rubbing anywhere. I need to get a few 90's to complete the system, as I ended up having a bit less space than I had thought. Fuel pressure sender will live right in the regulator easily enough. Complete Fuel Rail fittings ass'y 2007.11.02 ·Heart Transplant The Yamaha officially came out of the car tonight. about 30 minutes work was all it took to remove the last of the brackets, and pull the engine up out of the car. Couldn't have gone much easier. I spent a while cleaning everything, and boxing it up to get ready for its new owner, a nice fellow named Tom up in Toronto. It will be going into his Diasio. The first boxes have arrived! Summit, Rex Marine, and the eBay outfit where I got my fuel pump all had their boxes arrive today. The Burns Stainless muffler and fuel rail insert fitting are still on the way. Also, Pete shipped my order from Radical to me, which will be here Wednesday. Tomorrow is a big day - dropping off the R1, and hopefully picking up a busted Suzuki to test-fit everything with. Parts Boxes... Empty Engine Bay 2007.10.31 ·Small Updates Some small updates to yesterday's notes: The engine is ready to come out - ECU wiring has been separated from the car's wiring harness. The car is so light now I can push the frame around on its stands with one hand! I will yank the engine tomorrow, and get it cleaned up and ready for its new home - Bob is delivering it to ARRC for its new owner. Then, massive cleanup starts - going to clean/polish/inspect the entire chassis, remove all four corners to clean/check/etc, then start reassembly & fitting bits, as parts will begin arriving Friday. Radical got my order of mounts and other stuff here unbelievably quickly. I ordered along with Pete, and they really did well for us! Called about 2008 Hayabusas - folks wanted $6,500 for them! Looks like an earlier motor is in my future. Yikes. Rilltech is going to let me use a blowed up motor for test-fitting everything, so I don't need to worry about final engine installation for a LONG time, which is good. Working on some exhaust fitment thoughts now. This is going extremely well so far. Famous last words... 2007.10.30 ·Disassembly Begins... Things are moving forward quite rapidly - I am very encouraged. The latest: All of the fuel system, and 90% of the oil system parts are ordered and on their way. Excellent. It appears I've been able to get my R1 and associated pieces sold, so that will add some money to the kitty for the engine purchase budget. I am now working on removing the old engine and wiring harness to get them on the way to their new owner. Contrary to what I might have believed, It appears that 2008 Hayabusas *may* be becoming available in the not-too-distant future. David Watson called me tonight with news of some potentially down in Texas, so I will be investigating that when I get a chance. Either way, I am going to ask Rilltech if I can use one of their blown Hayabusas to test/run fitment on fuel lines, oil lines, header, and the like, before whatever actual engine arrives. The garage floor is starting to look like a real project is going on! Rear Shot R1 Parts Misc Car Parts 2007.10.26 ·Fuel System and Oil System ruminations Since the fuel injection runs at ~45 psi instead of ~3 psi, I need to redo the fuel system. This means new lines pump, filters, and adding a return line to the fuel cell. After making many phone calls over the past few days, I've waffled again, and am going to use a single high pressure pump to start with, versus the accumulator setup mentioned in the 10/23 update below. Simplicity is good, I hope. Should the arrangement prove unreliable or unable to correctly fuel the car, I will add the accumulator/canister and scavenge pump later - fortunately, all of my current parts will be compatible with that eventuality. The parts for the fuel and oiling system total about $500. Compare to about $300 for the Yamaha's Facet fuel pump, Holley regulator, NAPA 5/16" fuel hose, and associated oil-related fittings and adapters. Yipes! Such is the price of progress. Still working on trying to source an engine, either through Rilltech, eBay, or otherwise. Believe I have most of the exhaust options worked out as well, but much of that will have to wait until the engine is in situ. ·Fuel Cell I'm going to try my first attempt at the fueling setup relying just on the built-in accumulator in the Fuel Safe cell. It has three large check valves, and the pickup is right in the middle of the cell. I think this should be fairly effective towards making sure the car stays fueled, so we will see how it works. The pump, regulator and filter will all be located in the small space next to the driver, under the fuel cell bulkhead. This will keep them cool, the lines short, and easily servicable. The biggest complication is adding a return line for the fuel injection, since the cell does not have a port for that currently. I called Fuel Safe to see if I could add a Bulkhead fitting to the top of the cell, and received an emphatic "no". I asked later if I could add an additional nut plate, such as a 4 or 5-bolt circle plate to the top of the cell and got a "maybe, but we dont' recommend it". Essentially, the cell is reinforced around all of the holes they made at the factory (fill plate, access plate, and vent fitting), and my custom added plate would not have this. Since space is too tight to add to my large access plate, I have to try and fit a fitting in on the fill plate. For packaging reasons, and since I want the return line to be the more robust of the two, I am going to replace the current vent fitting with a -8 bulkhead fitting, and run the return line from there. The vent fitting will move to the fill plate. To accomplish this, Grant is going to weld a small 3/8" aluminium hose barb from Earl's (Summit PN EAR-984006ERL) onto the plate. From this, I will attach the hose. Immediately after the barb fitting will be the new check valve (Pegasus P/N 3216, which is designed to slip inside 3/8" hose. From there, they suggested I run the vent line up as high as possible, make a loop, and then run it back down to below the cell level somewhere. *PHEW!* ·Fuel Lines The fuel lines are more straight forward, just a lot of bits that need to come together. At Grant's urging, I decided to use all AN hardware, which a year from how I will be happy for, once the sting of the cost has ebbed a bit. I've tried to design this using the least hose and fittings possible, on the idea that fewer fittings mean less parts to come loose or leak, and less hose means less weight. For anybody reading this, suggestions welcome. I like the push-lock / twist-loc hose (SUM-220783) and fittings (SUM-220706) over the traditional braided stainless and hose ends. It is lighter, more flexible, easier to assemble, and does not abrade. It carries a 250psi maximum rating, versus 1000psi for braided stainless. Finally, the fittings and hose are more economical by 25-50%. From the exit of the cell (-6AN) to the fuel filter. This will run about 6" I am using a nice 10 micron fuel filter form Rex Marine P/N GP101, which has -6 fittings on both sides. Replacement filter elements are inexpensive as well. This appears to be the same filter previously branded K&N that I used back in the DSM days. I recall moving to a larger, 35 micron filter due to the small filter's propensity for restricting flow. However, with the high sensitivity of the motorcycle fuel injectors to gunk, the tiny filter size is a requirement, in my eyes. Changing and cleaning the filter will not be burdensome in a car driven 8-10 times a year. I am going to use a female/female coupler (Summit P/N SUM-220641) to attach the filter directly to the fuel pump, for the most compact installation. The fuel pump will be a Walbro GSL-392, a universal version of the Walbro 255 that many run in their imports.This pump has M10x1.0 threads, so I will use two adapters to get to -6 male ports, Summit P/N RUS-670480. The pump comes with some cushion clamps for mounting, so I will probably mount it to the aluminum plate that forms the floor of the fuel cell compartment. This choice is based on recommendations from engine builders, a few from the SR forum, and the fact that it can be converted directly to AN inlets and outlets. From the pump, will flow to the Aeromotive regulator, P/N AEI-13301. This has 1 inlet and 4 outlets, for excellent future flexibility. Each port is 3/8NPT thread, so the inlet will need a 3/8NPT to -6 adapter, Summit P/N SUM-220648. Port #1: The outlet to the engine bay will also use this adapter Port #2: the return line to the cell is -8, so needs adapter SUM-220846, and the fuel cell bulkhead fitting is SUM-220882N Port #3: This is for the fuel pressure sender, which will use a 3/8NPT to 1/8NPT bushing Port #4: This will be blocked witha 3/8NPT cap for now So far, every piece lives under the fuel cell bulkhead near the driver. Once the outlet from the regulator emerges through the firewall into the engine bay, it must go to a tee, for the required SCCA fuel sample port. This tee will be Rex Marine part 455 100, which is a -6AN fitting with a 1/8 NPT port for the fuel sample fitting. Finally, from the tee up to the fuel rail. At the rail is one final adapter, which replaces the factory Suzuki slip-on style hose fitting with a female ??? NPT port, from 1320 straightliners. So, I'll need one more AN-> NPT adapter when I do find out what that fitting is, probably another SUM-220648 or a 45/90 version thereof. Double *PHEW*! ·Oil Lines The oil system is going to be substantially simpler, I think. It looks like the Hayabusa filter mount location is close enough to the Yamaha's that I'll probably be able to use my existing lines for the cooler. Time will tell. Cooler Fittings: To convert the Suzuki oil cooler fittings to AN hardware, Peter D Motorsports makes AN Fitting adapters for $30 apeice. Oil Temperature: Oil Temperature: To take the oil temperature, George Dean recommended putting the temp sensor inline with the return line from the cooler, since that is the best indication of the oil temperatures the engine is seeing. The return fitting on the Hayabusa is the one closest to the oil filter inlet, coming straight off the front of the engine. Since these lines are all -8, the easiest way to plumb the 1/8 NPT thread into the lines is with, you guessed it, another adapter, Summit P/N RUS-670350, which provides a 1/8 female NPT port on a male/female fitting. So, this will go either right at the oil cooler, or right at the motor, wherever fitment allows. Oil Pressure: For this, the universal agreement seems to be to take the reading from the small plug in the oil galley at the driver's right of the engine, near the factory pressure sensor. This plug is M16x1.50, and most oil pressure senders are 1/8 NPT male, and don't like being mounted on engines. So, I will use and M16x1.50 to -4 AN fitting from Pegasus, P/N 3276-021, then a short length of preassembled -4 hose from Pegasus, which will go to the pressure sender, mounted on the firewall. A final adapter for -4 male to 1/8NPT female, Summit AER-FBM2721, will get the signal to my pressure sender. 2007.10.23 ·First Steps Tonight was the first few steps of the conversion. The car is on stands, and I've removed the wheels, bulkhead, fuel cell, coils, airbox, and seat. The shift linkage is out too. EFI Return Line: One of the first big questions to answer is how the fuel return line will be run for the EFI. Do I put a bulkhead fitting somewhere in the cell, on one of the plates, or some other method? Fuel Pressure Monitoring: I also hunted down and found the fuel pressure wires, which Hasty had previously used for measuring coolant pressure, as a means against guarding against water leaks. I'll use this for monitoring the fuel pressure of the motor as intended. I have a spare sensor, and will just have to extend the wires to where I ultimately mount the fuel pressure sender, which will be somewhere inside the bulkhead/fuel cell cavity. Fuel Pump Setup: After talking with many folks, I decided to take the route of a small accumulator canister outside of the fuel cell. Reasons for this include the assurance that I will be able to use every last drop of fuel in the cell (which in my case, also has a collector), and a non-trivial failure rate of high pressure, externally mounted fuel pumps - evidently the heat gets to them when not cooled by fuel. Downside is the extra complexity of having two fuel pumps - more to possibly fail. This accumulator pot is fed by a low pressure pump, and inside the accumulator is a high pressure pump. For the high pressure pump, I'm going to use the stock Suzuki pump - seems it should be the most reliable option available. For low pressure, I will either use a small rotary vane pump recommended by Richard, or the same facet pump I've been running for the past 3 years. For easy serviceability, both pumps are external to the cell, mounted to the left of the shift linkage, in the area previously occupied by the full-length Radical cell. Wiring for powering the pumps is in place, and the grommets for the high pressure line up to the fuel rail is already in place from the previous fuel system. Engine Mounts For simplicity, I am using the Radical factory mounts for the Hayabusa. These are on order, along with a bushing kit to rebuild the suspension. Clutch Hydraulic line The Suzuki slave cylinder is mounted in a different position, and has a different fitting from the Yamaha. Again, for simplicity, I ordered Radical's OEM line. Throttle Cable I noticed that the existing throttle cable was a bit frayed, and I may need to replace it for a different length or fitting type on the Hayabusa throttle bodies anyway. Radical South Park has one in inventory, which I'll snag. Parts List Here is the complete list of parts I've ordered, from where, for this project, and the costs involved: Item Cost Ordered From Notes Engine Engine $3,110 Rilltech ~3K mile 2005 w/ shipping Wiring Harness $395 Rilltech Simplifying stock harness Oil Pan + Sump Baffle $--- Rilltech Stock pan cannot be used w/o modification. This pan provides baffles, better oil control Engine Upgrades + Labor $778 Rilltech 3x stronger clutch springs, new clutch disks, high volume oil pump drive, manual camp chain tensioner, blockoff emissions ports Exhaust Muffler + Shipping $247 Burns Stainless 2.25" version. Most folks use 2.0" ID piping, it seems, so that would also work. Richard says they just neck them up slightly... Header + Exhaust $920 Rilltech Custom top-exit exhaust w/ burns stainless muffler. Fuel System Fuel Pump $120 eBay Walbro GSL 392, complete w/ install kit + fittings Fuel Filter $62 Rex Marine 10 micron, 900gph filter Fuel Pressure Regulator $123 Summit Racing Aeromotive AEI-13301. 1 inlet, 5 outlets 3/8 NPT Fuel Vent Check Valve $13 Pegasus 3216 - Fits inside 3/8" hose for fuel venting M 10mmx1.0 to -6 adapter $22 Summit Racing RUS-670480, 2 needed, for getting -6 outlets on fuel pump's M10x1.0 threads Return line bulkhead fitting $varies Summit Racing Summit Twist-Tite push-lock hose and fittings, unions, and NPT to AN adapters. Fittings & Hose $varies Summit Racing Summit Twist-Tite push-lock hose and fittings, unions, and NPT to AN adapters. Misc Engine Mounts $509 Radical UK Stock Hayabusa engine mounts Gearshift Lever $48 Radical UK Lever to mount on gearbox pivot for gearchange Gear Indicator $160 GI-PRO.net Gear-indicator that uses Hayabusa's built-in gear position indicator to show gear on dash. Also includes timing retart eliminator (TRE). Sprockets $60 Rilltech 14T, 15T, 16T, 17T sprockets for Hayabusa. Chain $200(?) Rilltech EK ZVX2, 150 link (= 2 chains) Oil System Oil Pressure Fitting $11 Pegasus 3276-021 M16x1.50 to -4AN male adapter. Goes in passenger side oil galley Oil Temperature Adapter $11 Rex Marine 45-100 Goes in-line with -8 oil lines, for adapter to plug in oil temp sensor. Recommended by George Dean to take temp @ oil cooler return.